BooksbyEric.com

February 13

Wrap up

All in all, I think this has been a pretty successful trip. I will definitely be able to update my presentations from the 1990s. I caught up with four families and took new photographs of them—the Daminovs, the Savalievs, Alekseevs and the Kochkareeva family. These were all groups of people I spent time with in the past. Plus, I've made some new friends along the way. There were a couple other people I hoped to find, but I just found out that one of them now lives in Moscow and the other still lives here in Korolev but is a student all day in Moscow . There is a chance I will be able to hook up with them over the next few days while I attend the dive show, but it doesn't seem likely since I won't have a phone or any way to coordinate a meeting. We shall see.

All in all, I think it was a positive trip for the Foundation as well. Dr. Ginny Simmons, as the organization's president, was able to make some in-roads into some new possibilities that will help keep the lines of communication open between the people of the US and the people of Russia. That communication often comes through our children. When they have a common understanding, everything is easier.

For me, it was also worthwhile to see the places that have changed as well; the streets of Moscow , the buildings, the churches and the schools. Those places reflect changes for the society as a whole. Combining the two, the close up photographs and stories on the individuals with the more macro images and stories on the place around them, I think I can paint a pretty good picture of life here now, especially when contrasted with life in the 90s. Now comes the hard part—pulling it all together.

 

February 12, 2008

Today was a pretty quiet day here as I took some time to get my things in order. I've packed up my stuff and gotten ready to move. I've got too much stuff, gifts and things, but I should be able to distribute those things easier once I get into my hotel.

Wages

Just a note about wages here. We were talking today about what people make. Normal wages seems to be between $1000 and $2000 US per month. Considering what things cost here, I'm not quite sure how anyone is getting by, but they seem to be doing well, in general. Not everyone, of course, but most. Activity in the shops, malls and restaurants seems to reflect that.

Cell phones

They are everywhere. Everyone seems to have one and no one ever turns them off. I haven't been to a movie, but at least I didn't hear any ringing during the show we went to. Other than that, they seem to be perpetually growing from people's ears—restaurants, on the street, in the cars, it doesn't matter. They do have bluetooth headsets as well, and I see people using them, but they seem to be constantly talking. I assume it is just because they've just become common in the last few years and the novelty hasn't worn off yet, but they haven't quite developed cell phone courtesy, yet.

Cold War

When talking to the older people, this topic still comes up from time to time. And the people here do seem to watch the news pretty closely. Last night, I was watching TV and caught a show in English from Discovery. It was about nuclear brinksmanship throughout the cold war. They talked about a couple events I had never heard about—including one in January of 1995 when Yeltsin was president of Russia. Other than the unique perspective of watching that on Russian television, it was a little more real for me as I recalled that I had just spent nearly three months in Russia and had just returned to American two months prior to that in mid-November 1994. It was a very fragile time and I hope we never get close to that again.

February 11

I ate Sushi for the third time in Russia today. It seems to be the new popular food, at least in restaurants. I think I mentioned it before, but it is amazing that there are restaurants at all. When I first came here in 1993, we were told there were only a few restaurants and if you didn't make reservations well in advance, they wouldn't seat you. Not because there was so much demand, but that they wouldn't have enough food for you.

Now, there are restaurants popping up everywhere, along with cafes and night clubs. A few casinos are thrown into the mix as well. On this trip, I've also eaten at two buffet restaurants. Not an unusual occurrence for an American, but when you take the concept of food-loss into account, it is pretty staggering. They now have enough food, compared to 15 years ago, that they aren't concerned about having to throw some food away at the end of the night.

The grocery stores seem to reflect that same level of food supply. On my first visit, there was a lot of food being sold beside the road—farmers bringing it in and selling it directly to the public. Milk, cheese, eggs, fresh produce, bread. Just about everything. I've only seen one lonely little guy selling eggs beside the road on this trip, but the grocery stores are selling everything. My last trip in 1997, there were a few grocery stores and they had an improved selection, but those are now outdated and being replaced by newer, brighter stores. Even the small kiosks beside the road that sold soft drinks and beer/vodka and cigarettes are being replaced by the larger stores. In Moscow , there are “supermarkets” and “hypermarkets” along with a store that was described as being akin to Costco or Sams Club. The evolution, and its speed, is astounding.

But, the sushi still mystifies me. The Russians tend to be pretty ethnocentric. Where Americans think of food in ethnicities (Italian, Mexican, Indian) the Russians haven't been exposed to too much food from other cultures. Sushi is definitely an acquired taste, although they do love fish here, but it is amazing to me that sushi is doing so well. On the other hand, one sushi restaurant had a section on the menu called anti-sushi for those patrons who want more traditional Russian fare. The price of lunch seems to be about twice what it costs in the US , at least at home in North Carolina .

McDonalds

I remember visiting what was then the first McDonalds in Russia . It was sort of fascinating to see how everything had been translated. By my last visit in 1997, there were several McDs, but they were still unique. Now they are everywhere, just like at home. The really amusing thing is the MacAvto, which means there is a McDonalds Drive-Thru. We stopped in one to grab something to drink on the road, which by the way, when you are traveling anywhere with Tatiana, means you will end up getting a full dashboard meal, not just a drink. I have the receipt from it. I'll have to go through it to see how the prices there compare.

Housing prices

Real estate here is described with a mixture of chagrin and pride as being the most expensive in the world. While Korolev is a suburb of Moscow , think of it as West Chester County outside of New York City . Just because it isn't in the city proper doesn't mean the prices have gone down any.

For a decent apartment, I've been told prices go about $3,000 a square meter. The typical apartment is about 100 square meters. So, you're looking at around $300,000 for an apartment. And, yes, that is US dollars. That is an unfinished apartment, though. Then you have to go in and build the walls and paint everything, along with adding in the furnishings. That pushes the prices into the $400,000 range. While a lot of people who can afford it are building houses now, the land costs are pretty astronomical, too. The houses I've been in are elegant and elaborate (several people are building indoor pools or have their own banyas in the basement), and they run into the $1 million to $1.5 million range, if not pushing $2 million. How do they afford it? I have no idea.

About Korolev

I came to an interesting (at least to me) realization last night. Korolev is advertising itself now. Understand, when I first came here, the city was known as Kaliningrad and it was a closed city. Foreigners were not allowed to visit here—or that ban had just been lifted. The city is the home to the Russian space program. The Space Flight Control Center is located here and Energia, the company the actually builds all of the rockets is headquartered here. Star City , where the cosmonauts train is not far away. Interestingly, though, when I made my first visit here I contacted the local AP office at the time to see if they were interested in any stories. They replied back that they had contacted the Moscow office and that they only Kaliningrad they knew about was 1000 miles away.

Since that time, the city has changed its name away from that of a communist party member, to Korolev, in honor of Sergey Korolev, the father of the Russian space program. But what struck me as really interesting last night was that there were billboards promoting Korolev to people driving up the M8 freeway. It had pictures of the space program and seemed to be promoting it as a good place to live. My how times have changed.

February 10

Fur shop

Whatever your feeling on wearing furs, they are still very much a part of Russian culture and winter dress. Fur coats are everywhere. A friend, Tatiana, who I am staying with for a few more days, owns a shop that sells a tremendous selection. She has even been honored by one of the top fashion designers in the country for her designs. She won the Grand Prize in a competition judged by Slava Zaitsev.

To help her and her family out for the enormous support they have given to me over the years, I offered to shoot some photos for her that she can use in her advertising and promotional materials. She had two models (one of whom works for her in the shop and the other is the daughter of an employee and her goddaughter) come in and wear coat after coat while I shot away. Nearly 300 images later, we had a pretty good selection. And who says photography isn't any fun?

After the shop closed and we were finished shooting photos, Tatiana told me that I was having dinner and a banya (see earlier description) with her next door neighbor (along with a friend). Unfortunately, neither he nor his friend spoke any English and my Russian is thin. Fortunately, it didn't really matter. Using a combination of hand signals, gestures and the few words we had collectively, we spent nearly three hours together. We all did fine, although it was a little frustrating at times—for all of us. This was a very traditional banya, and hot, too. We moved from the hot steam room to the cold tub and then to outside—and back again. We cycled through, taking breaks for food and drinks along the way.

Russia is truly the land of the random though. The three of us were sitting, wrapped in towels in the banya, drinking a mixture of Russian and American beer (MGD for them, Russian for me) and home-flavored vodka and watching a special about NASCAR on TV. Oh, and did I mention that my host is a Russian general who is in charge of all the trains in the Moscow Region?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

February 9

Ismailovo

One of the greatest places to shop in Moscow is Ismailovo. It is an enormous flea market that is only open on Saturdays. You can literally buy anything there (I saw someone selling mortar rounds and hand grenades—probably duds, but you never know). We go there, though, for the Russian souvenirs. You can buy this stuff a lot of places, but in Ismailovo, it is all in one place and the availability often keeps the prices in check.

On the other hand, the prices were higher this time around. In the past, there were dirt streets with metal boxes as booths for the vendors to show off their wares. Now, there is a tremendous system of structures, decorated with the traditional gingerbread cut outs, once reserved for country dachas (second homes). But with all this structure and organization, there is a price. And that is rent on the sales spots and upkeep on the place itself. So, with it go the prices for matrushkas and carved dolls. Such is life, I guess.

One of the more amusing side notes about Ismailovo, there was a large tyalet (toilet) by the entrance. But, you had to pay to enter, 13 rubles for men (about $.50) or 15 rubles for women. The only thing I could figure out that would cause the price difference is the need for toilet paper. Who knows?

The weather has been extremely mild, by the way. Most days it has gotten above freezing—probably 34 to 36 degrees. Not that that is warm, but for the Russian winter, it is surprising. It actually even rained one day, not snowed. Walking around the flea market, we kept getting dripped on as the snow on the roofs of the stalls and shops melted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

February 8

Facelift? $1000 US for both eyes.

Back in 1994, I took a tour of the of Hospital #1 in Korolev. They handed me a white lab coat to put on. In the lapel was a hypodermic needle. I also saw glass IV bottles hanging from stands.

Today, I visited a private medical clinic (something that didn't even exist until just a few years ago) for plastic surgery among other things. They also had exam rooms for gynecology and dental work. I have to say, though, that the quality of equipment appeared to be first-rate. Whether you would go to Russia to have plastic surgery or not, is up for debate.

Street vendors

We took a trip downtown to the Exhibition Center . This was once the showplace of the Soviet Union. Most people will remember this spot by the enormous Worker and Farmer, the root of the Hammer and Sickle. Those statues have been removed for now, as they are being restored, but the rest of the center is still there. Until the break-up of the Soviet Union , this park included exhibits detailing the successes of every Soviet nation. There were also exhibits detailing science and electronics and farming. In the early 1990s, to keep the lights on, the place filled with street vendors. This beautiful facility, with acres and acres of fountains and exhibits was suddenly full of people selling TVs, stereos and food.

Fortunately, they are now cleaning things up and restoring the place to its former grandeur. The only vendors are now inside some of the building, where they were all over the streets and sidewalks as well. Eventually, as I understand it, the plan is to remove all the vendors and make it a show place for the new Russia . That change is probably going to be slow in coming, but it good to see.

The biggest surprise, though, came at the home of another good friend—Anatoly Saveliev and his family. Anatoly is a producer of fine entertainment. When we first met him, he was the producer for the Russian Presidential Orchestra in the Kremlin. Today, he works independently as a concert promoter, but still does many events and shows for the government. In honor of our coming, he pulled off a unique surprise in truly amazing Anatoly fashion. He brought soloists from the Bolshoi Theater, both instrumental and vocal, to his house to perform. Obviously, Anatoly is a special person to have this sort of access in the first place, but this was truly phenomenal. The singers, Sergey Guiday and Katya (I didn't catch her last name) were amazing. After they sang, they sat down with us and ate for a while before they had to leave. Katya is young, only 25, but she has a tremendous voice.

As it happens, the Bolshoi is undergoing renovations so we weren't able to go there and see a show. So, we all agreed that since we couldn't go to the Bolshoi, the Bolshoi came to us. Not a bad way to end a pretty phenomenal week.

I will add an audio clip of them singing shortly.

 

 

 

February 7

Back to school

In the fall of 1994, I spent a couple months working with School #11, a magnet school that focused on teaching its students to speak English. It gave me tremendous access to the students, and I spoke to the classes, helping them practice their English. In return, they helped me out, feeding me from time to time and providing me with an apartment.

I hadn't been back to the school, though, since November of 1994. It was amazing to see the changes that had taken place. The school was good before, but really didn't have much in the way of technology, or a well-stocked library, for that matter. Today, it is stellar. There was a smart board and LCD projector in just about every classroom and lots of computers (Melissa B, you'll flip when you see these pictures!). There were security guards with metal detectors at the doors and tile floors throughout the first floor.

The students were just as enthusiastic as I remember them, stopping us in the hall to practice their language skills. Many were shy when we got beyond the basics of “Hello, my name is…” but still it was fun to see. It was also great to spend time with some of the teachers I remember from my time there.

One of the more interesting additions to the school's curriculum was a class in being an English-speaking tour guide. The teacher worked with the students, making sure they were well-versed in Russian history and culture—all in English. Obviously, if they took a job at a specific site, they would need to spend time learning the specific history of the location, but it was still very interesting that this was a specific topic of study.

The faculty at the school was very excited to see Dr. Simmons. This school was one of the first we worked with in the 1990s and it truly established many of the educational exchanges we were able to put on. Ginny, as the president of the foundation, is highly regarded. They were all interested in working with her on new projects. One potential program they discussed was the creation of an ESL (English as a Second Language) School in Myrtle Beach.

Presidents and politics

Literally, in every house I've walked into for the last week, someone has asked about the upcoming presidential election. And, no, I'm not talking about the Russian one, but the American one. They want to know if Clinton or Obama is going to be the next president. I doubt, however, that many Americans would know anything about the upcoming Russian election, although the winner of that one is somewhat of a forgone conclusion. Putin has handpicked his successor in Dmitry Medvedev.

 

 

 

February 6

Being outside

The weather has been hovering around the freezing mark for most of our stay. It might get a degree or two above during the day, but only dipping slightly below at night. It's interesting to note, though, that the Russians are still constantly outside. And not hurriedly rushing from their cars to a heated building (even though every building is usually over-heated). Rather, they spend their time walking through the snow.

While many people do have cars, many more do not, or they just choose to public transportation. Parking is typically haphazard and at a premium. Still, that doesn't really describe it. Yesterday, I saw a woman sitting on a bench reading a newspaper. Another babushka (grandmother) took a seat to rest for a while. Often you see people coming out of the woods that make up the greenways through the cities carrying cross-country skis. That was how they chose to get from one side of town to the other.

On my trips in the 90s, I was often surprised at how thin everyone was. They got exercise because they walked everywhere. But even then, I noticed how some of the people who were better-off and who had their own cars (and drivers in many cases) were starting to get heavier. Now, on television, I have seen advertising for stomach banding surgery. Last night at dinner, our host had recently had the surgery and had lost about 50 pounds. While every Russian doesn't eat endless meals of toasts and drinking and courses of food, when they do get the opportunity to do so, they seem to over eat. I hope they find a balance in their traditional style of eating, the desire to be outside and their desire to use cars and the transition to a more sedentary lifestyle. It is something we as Americans are struggling with but in their drive to become more “westernized” they are getting the bad with the good.

Sergiev Posad

We spent an hour or so at the center of the Russian Orothodox Church . The patriarch of the church works there and it is a seminary school, as well as an icon painting school. It was fantastic to see the renovations and the care on the facilities. The lavra, one of the holiest places in the facility, was beautiful, if dark from the candle smoke and wax from hundreds of years' worth of prayer candles. Parishioners came to offer prayers and kiss the tomb of Sergei Radonezh, the founder of the original monastery on the site.

Catching up

Fifteen years ago, Russia was effectively the Wild West. Opportunists were rushing in to fill the needs of the people and take advantage of the disorganization of the system. Often that led to crime and the black market, to the Russian mafia and to confusion and unrest.

While all that still exists, it exists in every western country so it isn't all that surprising. It is extremely interesting, though, that it has only taken 15 or so years for the country to make the leap and to catch up. They aren't completely caught up in every respect, of course, but they aren't nearly as far behind as they were, or as many people would like to think. Obviously, they had the models of America and Europe to follow. They didn't have to make this transition in a vacuum. It is still pretty amazing how far they have come.

Feodor, our host last night is a tremendous example. In 1991, he retired from the military as a officer. He went into business for himself as the opportunity arose and is now extremely wealthy. He became a contractor and began building large, industrial buildings. Did he pay bribes or skirt the law? I have no idea and wouldn't dream of asking. I wouldn't doubt it though. You do what you have to do to work within the system, official or unofficial. On the other hand, he has remained totally common and laid back about his money. He enjoys it and it lets him do what he wants to do, but he doesn't seem to flaunt it.

His daughter graduated from Coastal Carolina University in South Carolina and went on to earn a Masters Degree in Finance-- she is a product of the Foundation. (About 10 years ago, the Foundation expanded to programs all over the US, not just West Virginia. When Dr. Simmons, the president of the foundation, moved to Myrtle Beach, it opened up doors for more opportunities in South Carolina as well.) She is currently looking for a job that fits her experience and her education. While we were there, she called to announce that she had taken a job in a flower shop in the mean time. His reaction was that that was fine with him. If she needed his help, to get home, he would be happy to buy the plane ticket. Other than that, he felt she needed to make her own way and take care of herself. Her father is a millionaire (probably several times over) but he isn't going to take care of her.

I've not met his daughter, but I've been told she is beautiful, smart and talented and as completely at-ease with her money and her physical appearance--no doubt a product of her upbringing. If anyone in the Charlotte area has a job opening, though, she is looking. Send me a note and I will pass it along.

Dinner with Feodor

We were about two hours late getting to Feodor's house, for a number of reasons. We had let him know, we were going to be late and it was no problem. When we got there, though, we were hosted to a sumptuous meal and accommodations. An amateur gourmand, we had a brief snack of three courses (pate de fois gras, soup and then goat cheese and salad. We took a break from eating to spend two hours in a beautiful banya (more on this in a moment) and then returned to eating.

Oh, and did I mention the drinking? He and his wife Tanya produce their own flavored vodkas. They don't distill the vodka itself, but buy it and then flavor it, allowing it to age further, with various berries. Some of it was pretty amazing. After the banya, we returned to another five courses including lamb, tuna, shrimp and duck. Woops, forgot about the French pastries for desert, so I guess that was nine. Accompanied by tea made from aged tea leaves. He said he knew everyone would treat us to Russian food, so he wanted to do something different and took us around the world in flavors, from France, to Spain to Italy and then to China.

Oddly, and somewhat distractingly, he kept a TV on in the formal dining room. This was at least a 60 inch flat screen TV. Such is life in Russia .

Banya

Spending time in the banya is a very traditional Russian thing. This is a steam room, super-heated. Feodor said he prefers it to be upwards of 120 degree Celsius. That is in the 240 degree Fahrenheit range. Remember 212 is the boiling point. Traditionally, men and women can go to the banya together, but they don't go in the actual room itself together. Between trips inside, you can lightly eat or drink and talk. Inside though, talking is limited because the heat takes your breath away.

Just to make things even more interesting, they will soak birch branches, with all the leaves still attached, in a bucket of water inside the steam room. You'll literally beat another person with these branches, up and down the body—it helps to bring the blood to the surface. After six or seven minutes inside, which is about all you can take, you run outside and cool off. Most banyas today have a shower. Traditionally, bathers would go outside in the snow. This particular banya also had a small pool we lept into. The water temperature couldn't have been more than 40 degrees or so. It definitely took your breath away. After a couple cycles of this, in and out of the banya, we were done, feeling refreshed and ready to eat again. Good thing, too.

February 5

Time in the Kremlin

The Russian government has spent an incredible amount of time and money undoing the neglect done by the communists on the orthodox church. Whether this is from a true feeling of righting an injustice or simply to appease the masses, we'll never know, but so many churches are being restored to their former grandeur.

Today, we saw two exhibits in the Moscow Kremlin that I had never seen before. The first was a series of icons from the time of Ivan the Terrible. The second was the Patriarch's Palace. It was a collection of robes, icons and the personal chapel of the Russian Orthodox Patriarch in his former quarters in the Kremlin as well. It was fascinating and beautiful. We were also able to visit two churches on Cathedral Square in the Kremlin that I had never entered either. Both have undergone tremendous restorations inside. The frescoes and the icons were amazing. The detail and imagery is truly something to behold. Unfortunately, and rightly so, they forbid photography in these exhibits. The constant pounding of camera flashes destroys the images. So, I don't have much to show from today. But, when you walk through churches that were built and dedicated, seven years before Columbus came to North America , it is awe-inspiring.

Obviously, the Russian people have the technology and the know how to use advanced building techniques. But, as part of the restoration work on these churches, they seem to use only the most basic and rudimentary tools.

An amusing sideline happened today before we even got in the Kremlin, however. Tatiana pulled up to the military guard shack monitoring access to a parking lot right up against the Kremlin wall. After talking the guard for a few minutes, and slipping him the equivalent of $20, we were able to park in this lot, just steps from the Trinity Tower/gate entrance into the Kremlin. These soldiers are notoriously underpaid and they are often willing to look the other way for a little extra money in their pocket.

After leaving the Kremlin we went to dinner in a restaurant and then to the theater. An interesting note about restaurants, we've now eaten in two buffet restaurants in Moscow . What is so intriguing about that is that 15 years ago when we first came here, you couldn't eat in a restaurant without making reservations—they literally wouldn't have the food available for you if they didn't know you were coming in advance. Obviously, the food supply into the city has improved if places are willing to risk the losses of a buffet-style restaurant. And the food was really, really good, too.

After seeing Mama Mia, entirely in Russian (still had a load of fun doing it) we capped off the evening with what is becoming somewhat of a tradition. And that is unwinding with a snack and a few drinks, talking about the most memorable parts of the day or the biggest surprises. Something we could all benefit from on a daily basis.

 

 

 

February 4

Consumer society

What affect would runaway 14 percent inflation have on you and your pocket book? When you realize your money won't go nearly as far tomorrow (literally) as it did today, you end up spending every dime you make. Why save it?

Two or three times in the last 15 years, the Russian ruble has been devalued. Literally, the government says that as of next Tuesday, we are cutting three zeros off of your money. If you have $4000 dollars in the bank, after the devaluing, it is suddenly worth $4. Prices adjust accordingly, so the loaf of bread that used to cost you $3,500 dollars is now $3.5, but as the inflation continues to raise prices, your money continues to lose its spending power.

As you work, you can usually adjust to these changes. Again, though, you're not going to save any money. You're going to spend every dime you make. Government pensions don't help because they are small and limited, barely keeping up with inflation themselves.

All over Moscow , there are beautiful, enormous mall and high-end shops. Foreign cars choke the roads. The people have, or want, the best of everything. But, as one friend said, “when we retire, we may as well kill ourselves. There will be nothing left for us.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Skating with the Stars

I've been gratified to see several things that torn down by the communists, replaced in the last decade. There seems to be a new sense of history among the people. A church that formed one end of Red Square was torn down during the Soviet era, so the tanks and missiles could parade in front of the Supreme Soviet, over the ancient cobblestones, has been rebuilt. A service was going on as we walked underneath to enter the famous square. Other buildings have been rebuilt or restored to their former glory as well. Downtown Moscow looks beautiful with bright lights, restored facades and improved traffic patterns.

Which makes it seem so odd that someone would be allowed to erect an ice skating rink (presumable temporary) on one side of Red Square itself. It is brightly lit and gaudily-painted, but the locals seem to enjoy it as hundreds of people enjoyed a cold Sunday afternoon skating around the oval. An interesting twist, though, is one of the local television stations films regular installments of the local TV station “Skating with the Stars” on the ice rink. You just never know with this place.

 

 

 

 

February 3

All about the Russian soul.

For years, under the communist system, religion was persecuted and repressed. Churches were destroyed or turned into museums and people were discouraged from attending. Now, however, new churches are springing up. I remember visiting one of the first new churches to be established after the end of the Soviet era back in 1994. That trend has only continued.

Yesterday a dear friend, Nadia (a person without whom my travel throughout Russia would not have been possible) decided to be baptized into the Russian Orthodox Church. For those of us who grew up around churches, this would be a notable milestone. For someone who grew up without that constant influence, this is a tremendous step and a change in thinking.

Nadia literally wrote down the sins she had committed throughout her life, using the 10 Commandments as a guide, and gave her first confession yesterday to the priest. Father Vladislav then blessed her and proceeded through a 20 minute ceremony. I didn't understand much, considering that my principal translator was the one being blessed, but it was a touching ceremony, none-the-less. Afterward, when we got back home, she burned those same sins as a final act of absolution. She said she felt like she was starting with a clean slate.

The service was also notable because of the church were it all happened. Russian Orthodox churches are typically soaring testaments to God. They have elaborate gilded iconastasies featuring various saints. This one was a tiny pine structure, much like a small country church, no more than about 15 feet wide and 40 feet long—the size of a single-wide. They have plans, as money becomes available to build a new, large church, But, for now, this tiny one will do.

Returning that evening to the home of our hosts, the Daminov family, kicked off my return to Russia after an 11 year absence. We had a large dinner party, where old friends came by to spend the evening reminiscing. Throughout my stay here, I will be visiting with various families—reconnecting and photographing the changes that have happened in their lives. This party, though, was an illustration of the depth of the Russian people.

As the vodka and toasts flowed, everyone was in a good mood. By the end of the evening, we were all talking about friendship and how important it was to share a meal and take the time to understand each other. They were asking questions about who we thought would win in the upcoming primary, Clinton or Obama and the comment was made several times, that we should not let our presidents, or our governments keep us apart.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

February 2, 2008

Back again

Arriving back in Moscow was a surprise in efficiency. I have no doubt in my mind that some of this was because it is a Saturday in February, when travel to Moscow is far from its peak, but things went smooth and easy. So much so, we quickly made it through Passport Control, with the never-smiling guards, to baggage claim and out through Customs with barely a glance in out direction. Sheremetivo Airport was much cleaner and better organized than I remember it as well. It had been 11 years for me, but even Dr. Virginia Simmons (Ginny) was surprised at how nice things went and she was just here a year ago.

We were so efficient and things went so smoothly that we had to wait about 45 minutes for our ride to show up at the airport. We found a small café/bar in the exit lobby and had a coffee and then a glass of vodka to celebrate our safe arrival while we waited. Nadia and Vica arrived shortly and bundled us into the car for the half hour drive into Moscow . An interesting note about this, 15 years ago very few women drove cars. Vica is a 20-something girlfriend of a friend and Nadia is a grandmother. But they didn't hesitate to navigate Russian traffic, chatting on their cell phones and answering our questions at the same time.

There are only three of us. Ginny is on her 45th trip. She is the president of the Russia and West Virginia Foundation, a non-profit foundaiton established to promoted educational and cultural exhanges to Russia. I'm on my 6th, and Carolyn Pence is a virgin. Ginny is having fun watching Carolyn experience everything for the first time. Carolyn is simply fascinated. We will begin exploring in earnest tomorrow, but she has been thrilled to see the billboards and the signs in Russian, and not understanding a bit of it. I'm looking for differences, mostly. I see new construction everywhere. I also see more congestion, but in a way that is a positive thing as well.

Everything is covered in snow. Unfortunately, it isn't new snow, so it makes the streets look dirty. That, unfortunately, is to be expected. No way around it when you've got to drive your cars on the roads and there is no way for a street sweeper to roll through.

 

 

January 23, 2008

From 1993 to 1995, I spent about six months traveling throughout Russia , documenting the lives of the people and how they were dealing with the breakup of the Soviet Union . It was an amazing time. There was so much misunderstanding on both sides—American and Russian.

On February 1, I will be returning to Russia to follow up on that earlier project. I will be spending most of my time in the Moscow region, staying with friends. It should be a terrific opportunity to see examine how their lives have changed in the ensuing 15 years, and attempt to understand what it is to be Russian in the new era. I want to capture whether their dreams have been realized, thwarted or changed all together. I will also revisit the schools I photographed to see how they have changed and determine the outlook of today's students.

Russia 's role in the new world is changing again. Nationalism is on the rise and the Russian people seem to want to step back onto the world stage. I hope to discover how much of this is media hype and how much is true feeling. On my previous trips, I realized that while a government may say one thing, the people usually say something different. Most of my Russian friends said they never hated Americans, or were even suspicious of them. In fact, they were very curious about us and our lives. They also learned very quickly that their governments had lied to them for a long, long time.

For the last decade, Russia has been like the Wild West. Money has been power. Crime exploded. It will be interesting to see what comes next.